St. Augustinegrass (Stenotaphrum secundatum), sometimes referred to equally Charleston grass, is a coarse-textured, spreading grass that is pop throughout warmer regions of the Southern Us. It volition turn brown with autumn freezes and will be tiresome to green in the spring. It is the to the lowest degree cold tolerant of the warm-season turfgrasses. Encounter HGIC 1211, St. Augustinegrass for additional data on care and cultivar selection.

St. Augustinegrass is a wide-bladed, spreading, warm-season turfgrass that is adapted to the warmer regions of the southeastern United States.

St. Augustinegrass is a wide-bladed, spreading, warm-season turfgrass that is adapted to the warmer regions of the southeastern United States.
Joey Williamson, ©2018 HGIC, Clemson Extension

Producing a yearly maintenance calendar for managing turfgrass consistently year after year tin exist difficult in a state with such a diverse climate as South Carolina. Therefore, it is important to monitor temperatures and apply the needed management practices based on that year'due south climate. Of import times to monitor the conditions are during late winter or early on spring when the turf is coming out of dormancy and early fall when the first frost is forecasted. Concluding frost dates and first frost dates tin can vary past several weeks from the coastal areas of South Carolina to the foothills of the Upstate.

This turfgrass maintenance calendar may be used on turf grown throughout the state; however, management practices may need to be adjusted based on the year's climate and the region where the turf is grown.

Jan through April

Mowing: Mow the lawn slightly lower than the regular summer mowing height. The mower setting should be between 2 to 2½ inches loftier. Be careful non to gear up the mower likewise depression, as it may scalp the lawn. This height reduction should exist washed just earlier the lawn greens up, which unremarkably occurs during belatedly April or early May. If possible, utilize a mower with a bagger to collect the clippings and remove the dead material left from winter dormancy. Be certain to use a sharpened mower blade. Alternatively, the backyard tin be paw raked to remove the excessive dead leaf material from the lawn surface.

A sharp mower blade volition cleanly cut the grass blades as opposed to tearing the leaves. Wearisome mower blades rip rather than cut the grass and brand the grass more susceptible to diseases. Sharpen the mower blade monthly or every bit needed during the growing season.

A dull mower blade will shred the turfgrass foliage.

A dull mower blade volition shred the turfgrass foliage.
Gary Forrester, ©2018, Horticulture Extension Amanuensis, Clemson University

The appointment of initial turf green-up tin exist quite variable. In the coastal and more Southern regions of Southward Carolina, this by and large will occur sometime during Apr, only further inland, this may exist as late as mid-May. It is not unusual for St. Augustinegrass to green upward and exist burnt dorsum several times during the late winter or early spring due to late season frosts. For more than information on mowing, refer to HGIC 1205, Mowing Lawns .

Thatch Removal: If a thatch layer becomes a problem, utilize a dethatcher or vertical mower to remove information technology. For St. Augustinegrass, consider dethatching when the thatch layer is greater than ½ inch. For all-time results, use a dethatcher with a 2- or iii-inch blade spacing set at a ¼-inch depth later on the turf has fully greened-up. Do non apply a ability rake with a 1-inch bract spacing, every bit severe turf injury may consequence. Use a lawn mower with a purse fastened or manus rake to collect and properly dispose of the turf material pulled up. For more information on thatch removal, run across HGIC 2360, Controlling Thatch In Lawns.

Aerification: Core aeration is the process of punching small holes into the turf and soil to alleviate compaction, allowing air to get to the root arrangement. This volition aid to right problems associated with poor infiltration and drainage. Once the threat for spring frost has passed and the lawn is fully greened-up, backyard aerification may exist combined with dethatching to convalesce soil compaction and thatch bug.

However, if a pre-emergent herbicide was applied belatedly February to mid-March, postpone any tillage practices that will disturb the soil until just before the next pre-emergent herbicide application date. Pre-emergent herbicides create a bulwark that go on weed seeds from germinating. Agonizing the soil after an application will allow weeds to emerge through this barrier. For more information on aerification, run across HGIC 1226, Turfgrass Tillage and HGIC, 1200 Aerating Lawns.

Weed Command: To control crabgrass, goosegrass, sandspurs, and other summer annual weeds, apply a pre-emergent herbicide early in the year. Approximate application times are mid-February in the littoral and central areas and mid-March in the piedmont/mountain areas. A second awarding is needed approximately eight to 10 weeks after the initial application to give season long control of annual warm-flavour weeds.

Apply a post-emergent herbicide as needed to control existing winter weeds. In full general, do not apply mail service-emergent herbicides to the lawn in one case the turf begins to green. If a weed problem begins and the grass has begun to green with warmer temperatures, wait until the grass has fully greened-upward before applying a mail service-emergent herbicide. In the concurrently, mow and bag the weeds. St. Augustinegrass is sensitive to sure herbicides, such every bit 2,4-D, not simply during spring green-upwards, merely also during hot summertime temperatures. Follow label directions for employ of any herbicide and use with caution during these times. For more information on weed control, see HGIC 2310, Managing Weeds in Warm-Season Lawns.

Insect Control: Cold winter temperatures will help ordinarily keep insect problems at bay. Every bit temperatures showtime to warm in tardily leap, monitor for mole cricket and chinch bug activeness. If either insect is observed, utilize a lawn insecticide when damage becomes excessive. If the harm is minimal, monitor the activity and await before applying an insecticide. This is not the all-time time to utilize an insecticide considering of the cool soil temperatures and reduced insect activity. Yet, an early on spring warm-upward tin lead to both mole cricket and chinch bug action. Heavy populations can be reduced with appropriately timed insecticide treatments during this period. For more information on mole cricket or chinch problems command, see HGIC 2155, Mole Cricket Management in Turfgrass or HGIC 2487, Chinch Bugs.

If grubs (the white larvae of beetles, such as Japanese beetles) have been a problem in previous years, monitor them by cut a square foot piece of sod on three sides and peeling it back. If more than than 6 grubs are found under the sod piece, apply a lawn insecticide labeled for grub command according to label directions. For more than information on white grub management, run across HGIC 2156, White Grub Direction in Turfgrass.

Fertilization: Fertilization of St. Augustinegrass should be based on soil test results, and this is a good time to test soil. However, fertilizers containing nitrogen should not be practical during this period. If new turfgrass growth is encouraged past fertilization during the early spring, and it is followed by a tardily frost, this tin can result in significant damage to the lawn. Meet HGIC 1652, Soil Testing for instructions on how to properly submit a soil sample.

Irrigation: During dormancy, water the lawn to prevent excessive dehydration. Winter desiccation can exist a problem during dry winters. Watering to preclude drought stress can help eliminate turf loss during the winter.

About areas of S Carolina receive plenty rainfall during the winter to avoid winter desiccation of lawns. Notwithstanding, this is non always the case. Monitor the winter rainfall on a regular footing, and apply h2o to the turf if no measurable pelting occurs over a 3 to iv week menstruation. This is peculiarly important if warm, bright days preceed days forecasted to be in the low 20'southward or colder. The added moisture in the soil will assistance proceed the growing points of the turf warmer, preventing crown decease.

To manage a lawn, information technology is of import to know the soil texture in the top human foot of soil. Sandy soils do non hold moisture well since they bleed freely and dry out quicker. Dirt soils, however, volition agree moisture for a longer period of time. Be sure to non allow the backyard to stay excessively moisture if the lawn has a clay soil. If the soil stays saturated all winter, this tin can crusade many other bug. A soil probe tin be used to monitor soil moisture. For more than information, refer to HGIC 1207, Watering Lawns and HGIC 1225, Conservative Turfgrass Irrigation.

May Through August

Mowing: The ideal mowing elevation for St. Augustinegrass tin range from two½ to four inches depending on the specific site and management authorities and is all-time determined by the growing conditions. Lawns in shady areas perform better when mowed at 3 to four inches loftier.

During periods of environmental stress due to high temperatures or a lack of rainfall, heighten the mowing height ½ to ane inch until the stress is eliminated. E'er mow with a sharp blade using a mulching type mower, which leaves the clippings to decompose on the turf. The mower blade needs to be sharpened on a regular basis – usually well-nigh once a month or at to the lowest degree before the growing flavor starts. If the bag is picking upwards soil, mainly sand, when the lawn is mowed, then the blade may need to exist sharpened more often than once a month.

Fertilization: Always fertilize and add lime or sulfur based on a soil exam. St. Augustinegrass will grow all-time at a pH of 6 to half-dozen.5. If a soil examination indicates a higher soil pH, sulfur can exist applied to lower it. Utilise 5 lbs of pelletized sulfur per 1000 square feet of turf. Use sulfur only when the air temperatures are below 75°F. In 3 months, recheck the soil pH and see what change was made. Information technology may take several years to make a large pH change. Soils in the upstate are typically acidic and rarely need sulfur applications but usually do demand lime.

St. Augustinegrass lawns should receive 2 to 4 pounds of actual nitrogen per growing season, per thou square feet of turf. The higher charge per unit may exist chosen for those growing St. Augustinegrass on sandy soils with the lower charge per unit for those lawns growing on clay soils. An application of a soluble atomic number 26 product, such every bit iron sulfate or a commercial chelated iron, in between fertilizer applications, will enhance the green color without encouraging growth. St. Augustinegrass should be fertilized 3 times during the summertime, equally recommended below. Notwithstanding, in the piedmont and midlands of SC where the turf is growing on clay soils, St. Augustinegrass is typically fertilized only twice during the growing season (early May and early July).

Early Summer (May): Apply ½ to one pound of actual nitrogen per ane,000 square feet in early May subsequently the backyard fully greens upwards. The rate volition depend on soil blazon. A soil test will aid determine if a fertilizer containing phosphorous is required. See the section on fertilizer calculations beneath to make up one's mind how much granular fertilizer should exist applied.

Mid-summer (June through July): Fertilize with ½ to 1 pound of actual nitrogen per ane,000 square feet, depending on soil type, using a high potassium fertilizer such as 15-0-15. This fertilizer may be especially important if the soils are sandy. The addition of phosphorous, the middle number in the fertilizer assay, should only be applied if recommended by a soil examination.

Late Summertime (August): Fertilize with ½ to 1 pound of bodily nitrogen per 1,000 foursquare feet, depending on soil type, earlier August fifteen using a high potassium fertilizer such equally 15-0-15. The improver of phosphorous, the center number in the fertilizer analysis, will need to exist determined by a soil test. Potassium is needed belatedly in the growing flavour as the grass goes into dormancy for added illness protection and wintertime hardiness.

Nutrient Deficiencies: A yellow appearance during the growing season may signal an iron deficiency due to excessive phosphorus and/or a high soil pH. A long-term approach is needed to correct either cause, simply an iron product tin be added to apace enhance turf color between the spring and summer fertilizer applications.

NOTE: A xanthous appearance may also develop during early bound. This could point an fe or manganese deficiency due to soil temperatures lagging behind air temperatures, high pH soils, or high phosphorous levels. Spraying with liquid iron (ferrous sulfate) at 2 ounces in 3 to v gallons of water per ane,000 square feet or applying a chelated iron production will help to enhance turf colour. Fertilizing with a micronutrient fertilizer, such as manganese sulfate, can convalesce manganese deficiencies. However, as the soil temperatures get-go to climb, the yellowing should slowly go away. Lime or sulfur may also be added if a soil test indicates a need. Be enlightened, it could take several months for lime and sulfur applications to touch the soil pH.

Fertilizer Calculations: To make up one's mind the amount of granular fertilizer needed to apply ½ pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, divide fifty by the first number on the fertilizer bag. To determine the corporeality of product required to utilize i pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 foursquare feet, split up 100 past the first number on the fertilizer bag. This will give the number of pounds of product to employ to 1000 square anxiety of turf. See HGIC 1201, Fertilizing Lawns for more than information.

Irrigation: H2o the lawn to preclude drought stress. Monitor the lawn on a regular basis to appraise the demand for irrigation. When the unabridged backyard appears dry, employ ¾ to 1 inch of water the adjacent morning. Wait to irrigate again until the backyard shows moisture stress. At that place are several ways to make up one's mind when the lawn needs watering. One way is to discover the lawn daily. When the turf begins to dry out, it will appear to have a blue hue. Another method is to walk across the backyard tardily in the evening. If the grass blades in the footprints bounce support, then there is enough of moisture in the turf. If the grass in the footprints does not bounciness back, then irrigate the lawn the next morn.

The irrigation interval volition vary from site to site depending on the environmental conditions at that site and soil type. The general rule to turfgrass irrigation is to water "deeply and infrequently". Localized dry spots or hot spots can exist watered every bit needed by hand. The irrigation system should but exist run when the entire lawn is dry out. For more information on turfgrass watering, see fact canvass HGIC 1225, Conservative Turfgrass Irrigation.

Insect Command: In that location are various insects and related pests that may infest St. Augustinegrass during the summer months. Mole crickets, chinch bugs, spittlebugs, grubs, ground pearls, and nematodes tin cause considerable impairment. Each pest problem has its own management strategy and is unremarkably handled with cultural and chemical controls. However, there can be exceptions. Mole crickets and grub eggs will usually hatch mid-summertime. Insecticide applications targeted at the mole crickets in their smaller nymph stage are the almost effective controls, even if damage has not yet occurred. If either of these insects was a trouble early in the flavor, utilise an insecticide during mid-July to control the younger immature insects.

Chinch bugs can be very subversive to St. Augustinegrass. Monitor the turf on a regular basis during the growing season, especially during hot, dry periods. Damage is oft more severe in sunny areas about driveways, sidewalks, or roadways, where the turfgrass is under more heat stress. A chinch bug is a small-scale black insect with silver wings that sucks constitute juices from the stem. An infestation may cause the turf to die, which will need to be replaced or allowed to abound back in.

Chinch bugs are fairly like shooting fish in a barrel to control using full general insecticides, but applications demand to exist made before the population has risen to a level where damage is occurring. Inquiry has shown that an early season insecticide application after the turfgrass has greened-up volition reduce the late season activity. When applying insecticides for chinch bug control during the summertime, rotate chemical families or mode of actions to reduce the take chances of pesticide resistance.

If an insect trouble occurs, it is important to positively identify the problem and select the advisable insecticide to apply. Contact the local County Extension Part, or the Home & Garden Data Center for positive identification and proper management strategies. For more than information, see fact sheets: HGIC 2156, White Grub Management in Turfgrass; HGIC 2155, Mole Cricket Management in Turfgrass; HGIC 2488, 2-lined Spittlebug; HGIC 2157, Bermudagrass Mite, Rhodesgrass Mealybug, & Groundpearl; and HGIC 2487, Chinch Bugs.

Illness Control: The well-nigh common diseases that touch St. Augustinegrass during the growing season are large patch (formerly known as dark-brown patch) and gray leafage spot. Large patch is a fungal disease that is active during warm, humid spring and fall conditions. Since it is fueled past wet, it is important to maintain a rather dry out condition in the backyard by employing proper watering practices, too as providing acceptable soil drainage.

If the turf stays wet, circular xanthous to dark-brown areas may begin to develop and slowly abound in size. After, the middle of the circle may start to re-green. In heavily infested turf, the rounded areas may grow together and no longer announced round. If the turf at the edge of the dying surface area shows a smoky brown, rotted advent, it volition be necessary to apply a fungicide handling. For more data, delight see HGIC 2150, Brown Patch & Large Patch Diseases of Lawns.

Gray leaf spot may occur on St. Augustinegrass during the rut of summer when the turf remains damp for extended periods, usually during rainy periods or on newly laid sod being kept wet. There will exist small purplish spots on the leaves and at an avant-garde stage, the grass will have a scorched advent. At this point, a fungicide application will be needed. Please see HGIC 2151, Grayness Leaf Spot on St. Augustinegrass.

Overall, proper h2o management, fertilization, mowing height, and thatch control are essential to curtail large patch and gray leaf spot bug. To assistance reduce disease issues, fertilize and lime St. Augustinegrass according to a contempo soil test report.

Weed Control: A selective, annual grass and/or broadleaf weed command pre-emergent herbicide that is labeled for utilise on St. Augustinegrass and applied during late winter and leap volition reduce many weeds the following summertime. If a pre-emergent herbicide was non applied in the leap, the resulting weeds will need to be controlled using postemergent herbicides.

Summer weeds, such every bit spurge and annual lespedeza can exist managed by using a post-emergent herbicide for broadleaf weeds sometimes referred to as a 3-way mix. 3-manner herbicides typically contain 2,4-D. St. Augustinegrass is sensitive to ii,iv-D, so follow label directions for mixing and utilise. Exercise not apply herbicides unless grass and weeds are actively growing and are non suffering from drought or heat stress; therefore, h2o the backyard thoroughly the 24-hour interval before awarding. Additionally, do not apply postal service-emergence herbicides when the turf is emerging from winter dormancy or when the summertime temperatures are xc °F or higher. Practice not mow the backyard 3 days prior or 2 days subsequently application. As with all pest command, proper weed identification is essential for all-time control options. Contact the local Canton Extension Office or the Clemson Home & Garden Information Eye for identification and control of weeds in the lawn. For more than information on weed control, come across HGIC 2310, Managing Weeds in Warm Season Lawns.

Renovation: Replant large bare areas in May using sod, plugs, or sprigs (five bushels per 1,000 square feet). For more information, refer to HGIC 1204, Lawn Renovation.

September through December

Mowing: Continue to mow St. Augustinegrass at the normal mowing height until the weather condition starts to absurd in the fall. One time nighttime temperatures autumn below 70 °F, raise the mower cutting height ½ to ane inch to allow more than leaf surface. This will allow the turf to become acclimated by the time the get-go frost occurs.

Fertilization: Practise not apply nitrogen at this time. Lime or sulfur may be practical if recommended by a recent soil test. Potassium, typically known every bit potash, may be applied to raise winter hardiness if a recent soil examination indicates low to medium levels of potassium. Employ one pound of potash (K2O) per 1,000 square feet, four to half-dozen weeks before the first expected frost, using one.6 pounds of muriate of potash (0-0-sixty) or ii pounds of potassium sulfate (0-0-50) per 1000 square feet.

Irrigation: In the absenteeism of rainfall, continue to h2o to prevent drought stress. Later the lawn has become fallow, h2o every bit needed to prevent excessive dehydration. This is especially important if warm, vivid days proceed days forecasted to be in the depression 20'south or below.

Insect Command: Whatever insects that were missed during the nymphal stage in the summer will have grown to a size where turfgrass damage is occurring. Employ an insecticide to reduce the population and reduce further turf impairment. This is best done before the first frost.

Affliction Control: For disease control, particularly large patch, it is extremely important to treat with fungicides during the fall months. With warm temperatures through September and the possibility of excessive rainfall that may occur during that period, diseases can increase speedily. However, with cooler nights and shorter day lengths, control can be quite difficult because of irksome turf recovery during this time. Turf weakened by disease in fall will be slow to recover in the spring; therefore, fungicide applications are needed to control illness before the grass goes dormant. In certain situations where large patch has been prevalent yearly, a preventative fungicide awarding may be needed starting in early on October to stay alee of the disease. For more data on affliction control, please run into HGIC 2150, Brown Patch & Large Patch Diseases of Lawns .

Weed Control: Many winter almanac weeds can be managed by applying a pre-emergent herbicide in September with a second awarding 8 to x weeks subsequently. Follow all characterization directions on the product for application rate. Granular herbicides must exist watered into the soil presently after application. Follow characterization directions every bit to post application watering.

Selective, post-emergent herbicides can be applied as necessary for control of chickweed, henbit, and other cool-season broadleaf weeds. St. Augustinegrass is sensitive to certain herbicides, such as 2,4-D, so follow label directions for reduced mixing rates. Spray sufficiently to moisture the foliage, simply practice not spray excessively. Repeat application in 10 to 14 days, if needed. Selective herbicides may exist applied in the winter for command of annual bluegrass and other winter annual weeds. For more information on weed control, see HGIC 2310, Managing Weeds in Warm Season Lawns. Contact the local County Extension office or the Clemson Habitation & Garden Information Centre for weed identification and control measures.

Originally published 09/05